once upon a time on a post- quarantine adventure…

sak pase: it’s a reCap- Haitien Style

When most people think of “vacation,” I’m sure Haiti is probably not very high on the list. As a gal who loves to travel a tad bit more than vacation, my trip to Cap-Haitien, Haiti was the perfect mix of both.

A few years ago, I watched an amazing documentary about how the Haitian people were the first to lead a successful slave revolt; and gain its independence from France to become the first Black republic. Ever since I’ve been intrigued, and eager to learn more. When I stumbled upon Kultured Travels in March/ April on Instagram and saw they had an upcoming trip to Haiti, I knew I had to take the leap. I was so excited to make this adventure my first opportunity to reemerge into world travel.

Even though Haiti often gets a bad rap (you’ve heard it before- violence, poor infrastructure and governance, civil unrest- you name it), I highly suggest giving this complex, but beautiful country a chance! With that said, if you don’t know someone that has personal connections to the country or aren’t travelling with a group, I don’t advise attempting to go it alone. Haiti is definitely not there yet! I chose the latter and had an amazing time travelling with the Kultured Travels tour group. If you want more deets about my first time experiencing the beauty of Haiti, you know what to do…. just keep on reading.

Day 1

After meeting the group at the airport, we departed for Hotel Satama in the hills of Cap-Haitien. The hotel offered the most beautiful views of the city and the coastline. After settling in we were welcomed with a cocktail and some light, traditional bites. We enjoyed Accra (a type of fritter made of pureed malanga- a common root vegetable) with piklis (a spicy, pickled slaw) and Kibbeh (another deep fried, fritter- like bite stuffed with ground beef). That evening we visited Lakay Bar & Restaurant for our welcome dinner where we enjoyed a semi- family style meal. I had the goat and opted for the traditional “champagne soda” that reminded me of our version of cream soda. After eating, I enjoyed a few more drinks from the bar; and some dancing with members of the group and a Haitian man willing to show us some moves.

Day 2

This was one of the days I was most excited about! We had an action packed day. We visited Citadelle Laferriere, Sans Souci Palace, a cultural center, and a local rum distillery just off the road.

It took us about an hour to get up to the parking lot where the singular road up to the Citadelle began. Commissioned in 1805 by Henri Christophe and completed in 1820, the Citadelle is the largest in the Western Hemisphere. It was built as part of a system of fortresses atop the inland mountains for optimal military advantage in case the French invaded. The fortress was built to store enough food and water to house 5,000 people for up to a year. To reach the citadelle we rode a horse with guides up to the top. This was quite the chaotic situation! Although a historic UNESCO site, it is poorly regulated and we were bombarded with vendors and guides vying for the chance to sell us their goods, or use their horse to take us the rest of the way. The remaining mile or so ride up the steep, stone- lined road was quite the experience! I was scared the entire time, but the beautiful mountain views helped to ease my fear of falling to the rocks below me. After our private tour of the Citadelle, we rode back down the singular road (which I’d say was scarier than the ride up) and drove just a few minutes down the road to Sans Souci Palace.

Sans Souci Palace, was the residence of Henri Christophe, his family, and their staff and advisers. It sits just 3 miles northeast of the citadelle perched on the mountaintop above. Although partially destroyed by a severe earthquake in 1842 and never rebuilt, its remaining structures are still quite breathtaking. It’s not very difficult to imagine how beautiful it was just from perusing the plush grounds and remaining edifices.

After touring the remains of Sans Souci Palace we enjoyed a made-to-order meal at a local Cultural Center. We were greeted by a band of drummers accompanied by a saxophone. We enjoyed a meal of Pistachio chicken, fresh salad, fish balls, and my favorite part, Haitian legume. Haitian Legume is essentially a vegetable stew made with carrots, cabbage, and other vegetables mashed together. It was delicious!! I’ve been craving it ever since.

Following lunch, we visited a local rum distillery. We had the privilege of watching the sugar cane being pressed for its juice and viewing the different barrels it was held in at each step of the fermentation process. We were even allowed to see and taste it in its final state as rum. Whew boy! Strong is an understatement. Think damn near pure alcohol with hints of molasses- or at least that’s what it tasted like to me. We were able to take some for purchase, but I knew it was a no go for me. Under the table would have been where you’d find me!

Day 3

Ok, I lied. I was looking forward to this day the most! We headed to Labadee Beach where we boarded a boat for Amiga Island. I couldn’t wait to see the views of the coast and lay out on the beach! I was also super excited about the fresh caught lobster, crab, and fish we’d be having for lunch. Not much more to say about this day, but pure bliss. I soaked in all the sun, sand, and scenes. If we could do this day over and over again- I most definitely would. It was the slice of vacation I needed!

Day 4

How could I forget!? We started our last full day in Cap with massages in our rooms. That was the second slice of vacation I needed. It was proof that regular massages are definitely needed in my self-care routine. This day’s adventure included a city tour, a chance to purchase some souvenirs, and a stop at a monument commemorating Haiti’s fight for independence and fated victory. Our guide told us the site of the monument was actually where the battle was fought. It’s amazing how history has the ability to bridge the past and present!

I bought two woven hanging baskets for my plant babies, and a portrait of a beautiful little girl with bright eyes and her tongue sticking out. I think it’s safe to say I’m an art collector! It has become my tradition to purchase some type of art from each place I travel. Whether a painting, sculpture, or something else to display, I love having a visual reminder of my experience in other parts of the world. It also reminds me of the privilege of travel, exploration, and adventure; and how blessed I’ve been to have so many experiences.

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If you can’t already tell, I had a blast travelling to Haiti with Kultured Travels. If you’ve never considered travelling solo with a group of strangers- think about it. If you’ve thought about it, but haven’t taken the leap- stop thinking and do it! Most of my travels around the world have been with tour groups where I’ve known not a single soul. Yes, it can be a bit nerve-wracking travelling with people you don’t know. But, the key is to keep an open mind and think positively about the type of experience you want to have and is absolutely possible. The good thing is the people you’ll be with are likely just as open-minded and welcoming to new people and experiences, which makes for an even easier transition.

One of my favorite things about travel groups is once I book my trip, my only responsibility is to be ready to meet and leave with the group on time! All of the planning and guesswork is taken care of. Kultured Travels did a great job of doing just that. Every detail was arranged- from activities to transportation to included meals. All I had to do was sit back, relax, follow important instructions, and enjoy a new place and new people! I highly recommend checking out one of their future tours. You won’t regret it. C’mon, have I ever steered you wrong!?? As usual, no thanks necessary- just enjoy yourself. For more information on open and upcoming tours with Kultured Travels, check out their website: www.kulturedtravels.com.